First I make a prototype which involves carving the design out of clay that is in the leather hard stage. I use many different tools and brushes to get the design ready to mold, making sure there are no undercuts. The clay would not release from the mold if there are undercuts.
A plaster mold is made of the prototype. In this example I used a paper bowl to pour the mold. Tacky glue is used to glue the prototype to the bottom of the bowl to prevent it from floating. This one is off center and looks like it may have floated a little. Patience...let the glue dry :)
Customers order their button style(s) and hole or loop configuration. I can put as many hole or loops as you would like. Have it your way!
They are left to dry.
When the buttons dry it is referred as bone dry stage or Greenware. At this stage I sand the backs, clean and smooth all edges and holes. You don't want anything sharp that may scratch/cut anyone or pull your clothing.
Some underglazes are applied to the greenware.
Bisque fired buttons. Nice and smooth. You can rub them on your clothing without snagging, the same can't be said for my hands.
I sign all my buttons and add my website. It gets a little tricky on the tiny buttons.
All buttons can become a pendant or jewelry component.
Assortment of buttons with loops and holes. The dragonfly button in the picture is slightly curved for a bracelet component.
It's up to how you will be using your buttons: No Holes, Shank, 2 Holes, 4 Holes, 1 Hole-Top, 2 Holes-Top&Bottom, 1 Loop-Top, 2 Loops-Top&Bottom, 2 Loops-Left&Right, 1 Loop Top/3Bottom, etc.
Same goes for beads, holes or loops!
Special orders don't upset us!